I am joining with 50,000 other people participating in “1,000 Words of Summer.” The “challenge” is to write 1,000 words a day from May 29 to June 12. I am starting May 31 and continuing through the end of June. This one encompasses three days of writing, and, I unexpectedly wept when I read it to my wife.
The ferry crossing between Mauritania and Senegal is a carnival. The passage includes a full sample of the flora and fauna of both countries (with a strong oversampling of goats), approximately seven different spoken languages, and a variety of products that appear to be manufactured identically on both sides of the river but, for some reason, exported to the other side.
To say it is cacophonous is to understate the sheer volume of everything crammed into the small waiting area. But because it is (mostly) a carnival, there are smiles, jokes, and the normal ribbing that accompanies families, friends, and business partners across the “fleuve.” (People don’t say they cross the Senegal River, they just cross “The River”—there are so few in these parts.)
We were there to make our way to Dakar for… wait for it… a softball game. Or, rather, a full-blown softball tournament that drew expatriates from nearly all the former French and English colonies lined up along the Atlantic. From embassy workers to oil men (from Nigeria), we converged on a sandy soccer field on the outskirts of Dakar to play a version of the American pastime.
Our team was the most eclectic because we had to draw on nearly every able-bodied (and willing) American in the country to complete a team of nine. We were aid workers, undercover missionaries, non-governmental organization employees working on a variety of “development” projects, a few embassy folks, and a handful of Marines, in-country to guard the embassy and get drunk as often as frequently as possible.
We traveled south on the two-lane, crumbling asphalt road that was the sole connection between the Capital and the water. Nouakchott, that desert capital that had, in recent years, spread like the ever-advancing sand dunes that were slowly burying the nation, just as it buried the sand all the way to the Atlantic. You either take over the sand or the sand takes you over. Either way, the dominant color is sand.
But the river—the crossing in particular—was a riot of color. From the deep blue boubous of the Maures, to the tie-dyed robes of the Peuhl and Wolof speakers on both sides of the river. The greens, the splashes of orange and red, the blues (blue dye is cheap and ubiquitous), and the occasional pure-white costume (how do they keep them so white? someone has asked).
And we in our standard fare blue jeans and t-shirts—the “toubobs” that, according to local lore, gave up their clothes upon death, with said clothes inevitably ending up on the “dead toubob” clothing piles in markets all over the continent. Cheap, used goods, recycled through the global trade, that locals could only grasp as an admission of just how rich the “Europeans” really are.
Some of us had done these “messy” crossings. Land crossings involving suspicious border guards not used to seeing white faces slumming it on ferries. Messy in comparison to the antiseptic airline/airport crossings that transport one seamlessly from capital to capital. Messy because they ARE messy. Lots of yelling, pushing, shoving, shouting, jostling, and just plain body slamming that you never experience in the clean crossings.
The locals notice nothing because this is how a crossing is done. The expats plunge in (if they dare) with a sense of adventure. There is a feeling that anything might happen, but what usually happens is that everyone finally crams onto the boat, and you end up in another country in about 30 minutes. Timetables are estimates. There is little purpose to a watch, and anyone looking at one angrily to show displeasure at the “delay” only shows that they don’t understand the terms of the agreement: you show up and pay, we take you across. Beyond that, the details are fuzzy.
It only takes a crossing or two to realize that the crush of bodies is part of the day, and you haven’t really crossed unless you have exchanged your Sahelian sweat with at least fifty complete strangers.
I will take a messy crossing over the cleaner kind any day of the week. One, I hate to fly and cannot stand the thought of the teeth grinding I go through at take-off and landing, only to have them happen roughly fifteen minutes apart. Two, I love the unique things I will see only on a land crossing: the random goat being toted in a burlap sack with only its head sticking out, the impossibly large bundles of cloth balanced on women’s heads, the food vendors setting up shop shoulder to shoulder for the kilometer or so at the approach to the ferry landing. Each one selling nearly identical products to the crowd whose numbers approximate those of the sellers. I never really understood how I chose one over another. And the children—so many children. Running, laughing, pushing, fighting, selling, stealing (?), swearing in any tongue available to them.
Airports are full of adults—mostly men. Ferry crossings display the full demographic profile of a nation—you can create a decent population pyramid just by counting heads and estimating ages.
The day of our crossing was the typical spring day in that part of the world, with the vault of heaven rising impossibly into the whiteness of the sun. Blue, but not deep blue—too much humidity for that. Warm, but not hot. Those days are coming, when the hammer of heaven slams the anvil of earth, and poor humans scurry for cover from the heat that never eases until the sandstorms and the rain chase it further north (where it never rains) later in the year.
But that day was spring, and with a slight ocean breeze flowing eastward up the river, it was fine. A day for baseball, if you want to know the truth. And baseball (softball, actually) was on most of our minds as we joined the throng to shove our way onto the craft that we assumed (usually correctly) would make it to the other side.
We had our gear, which, obviously, included baseball bats. And here the carnival atmosphere gave way to something more sinister (was that a stray cloud covering the sun?).
The US Marines stationed in Nouakchott led a cloistered life—by design. They were there for one thing: to guard the embassy and keep its (also cloistered) staff safe. By that time, having a full embassy in a country like Mauritania was a bit of a joke; today, it feels like an anachronism. But it was there, and so they were.
I say they had one job, perhaps they had three: 1) guard the embassy and its staff, 2) play softball or basketball, 3) get raging drunk at the American club at least once per week, depending on the rotation.
They rarely traveled outside a well-worn path between their living quarters and the embassy—except when they escorted key staff to official functions. They crossed borders the antiseptic way and avoided contact with the locals, whose language they could not speak, and whose customs were as inscrutable to them as the mind of a pacifist.
They were led by a gunnery sergeant whose nickname was, aptly, Gunny. He was shorter than what your mind would conjure when you think of an American Marine. Maybe that is why he was so, how shall I say, direct. No, he was aggressive. He was in my face regularly at basketball games where the “non-official” Americans dunked on the embassy and Marine folk until Gunny made sure they brought in a wringer from Cote d’Ivoire. A fine basketball player originally from Indiana. We still beat them.
Gunny played hard and made up for his middling talent in both softball and basketball with a Pete Rose-like hustle that wore you down over the course of the seemingly infinite number of games he insisted we play every Friday afternoon (our day off in that Islamic Republic).
Gunny did not like to lose, and he would get so frustrated with our routine thrashing of his team that he frequently ended up stomping away or committing some ridiculous foul—I saw him drive the lane one time and strike a well-positioned defender in the chest with the bottom of his shoe and then scream for a blocking foul.
His men treated him with deference but secretly smiled at his wild ways. That’s just Gunny, they would say. Indeed.
I don’t know why Gunny, with his wife and daughter in tow, decided to take the messy crossing rather than the 20-minute flight between Nouakchott and Dakar, but he did. Maybe we talked him into it, suggesting it would be good to get out and see the country. Most of us spent most of our time “en brousse”—in the rural areas where only traders, ag extension, and health workers roamed. We had seen not only the messy crossings, but a whole lot of other messy things: the malnourished children, the villages emptied of men who had fled to find jobs in the city, the desperation, the slavery (yes, it exists). In other words, the messiness was baked into our experience, and in comparison with what we had seen, the border crossing was a joyous occasion. It was an opportunity to relax and enjoy the beauty and diversity of this border, which is like so many other borders around the world.
Borders are places where things like ideologies, identities, religion, and skin color get mixed in amazing ways. Every human of every kind crosses them—most take the messy way.
Amazing, enjoyable, even joyous to most of us at the border that day, but not for Gunny.
While we were buying food, exchanging words in languages we barely spoke, watching the kids, enjoying the springtime sun, and otherwise gazing and marveling over a BIG river. I think I mentioned how scarce rivers are in that part of the world.
While we are doing all of that, Gunny was huddled to the side, wide-eyed and clearly agitated. At first, we ignored him; we were with him, but not of his tribe. Personally, I thought Gunny was on his own. He was a big boy whose name implied a destructive force that I could not understand. He could take care of himself.
But Gunny was breaking down. First huddled, then pacing, then striding up and down the passageway—nostrils flared, eyes darting, fists clenching/unclenching. We soon realized that Gunny was not handling the scene very well.
And then he went for the softball gear—the aluminum bats in particular.
The good news is Gunny didn’t crack any heads that day. He didn’t swing the bat wildly. What he did kind of scared us more than any of that. Once he picked up the bat, Gunny stood perfectly still.
Now we had seen Gunny on the diamond and on the court. We had seen this stance before—usually sans bat. But we knew it well. Gunny was going to explode. And the only question about the explosion was who would be in its way and who would get knocked down.
We left our food purchases, abandoned our gazes over the river, and cut off the conversations, and, all of us, seeming of one mind, converged on Gunny. His breath was shallow, and he repeated over and over—”We might have to bust some skulls, we might have to bust some skulls.”
And then “This place is out of control. It’s a madhouse. It’s crazy. This is coming apart.”
“Gunny, Gunny! Hey, man. Step back. Give me the bat, Gunny. Come over here, Gunny. Take a break, Gunny.”
We surrounded him, and one of us gently took the bat from his hands. No fight. Gunny didn’t put up a fight. He just looked around—looked at us and said: “What is this?”
After we had his bat in our hands, we all calmed down a bit. We, tacitly, without any discussion, decided that we needed to mind Gunny, we needed to guide Gunny, we needed to be with Gunny. We walked him over to the water—showed him the women doing laundry on the rocks below. We urged him to try some thieboudienne (if you haven’t eaten it you must). We introduced him to a few distinguished travelers we had identified.
And then we got on the boat and went to Senegal.
There was only one difference between Gunny and us. Well, perhaps more than one. After all, we were not trained killers, but in regard to our lives in the Islamic Republic, there was really only one that mattered.
While Gunny never interacted with the people of that nation (aside from a few local embassy staff members), the rest of us were plunged into the most intimate interactions you could imagine with them. Crammed shoulder to shoulder as we drove hours and hours across the scorching desert tracks. Showering virtually naked together as we bucket bathed behind the nearest sand dune. Sleeping piled together in tiny adobe brick structures to escape howling windstorms with all windows and doors shut and temperatures sweltering at 100+ degrees—bearing one another’s odors and sweats throughout those restless nights.
We had been to places where the only food was three glasses of sugary green tea, a recently slaughtered (and extremely scrawny) chicken, and a bit of rice. We had trekked from village to village chasing down children to be vaccinated, having them urinate on us in their abject fear. We had had our hands and faces tainted blue from wearing the “howlies” that kept most of the dust out of our mouths and ears. We had spent endless hours listening to stories whose morals often escaped us. We had felt homesick in a dozen places where we lay sick from the influences of bad food, seasonal malaria, or both. We had argued, and bartered, and learned to swear in the most exquisite ways, bringing amused smiles to the faces of our Mauritanian colleagues. We had danced at weddings and sat long hours at funerals.
We had listened to the griot sing the songs of daily life as he played his rickety three-string, sitting on the ground under the stars.
By the time we got to the River, we had seen the full array of colors, we had heard the Muezzin in a hundred places, we had tasted all (and I mean all) the parts of a goat, we had touched the calloused and broken hands of the herders, water haulers, and domestic servants. What we saw at the river could not begin to match the diversity of what we had experienced. But it was beautiful—just as, in their own way, all the other experiences had been too.
I live in a country in which “diversity” has become a dirty word—a word to be chased from both the lexicon and our daily lives. But I live in a place that understands its value and glories in its promise.
I see my life enriched by being crammed (metaphorically) into a place that welcomes the world and all that means for good—and sometimes ill. (I often say that the entire world comes to my small university town—and the world brings all the joy and turmoil of a thousand places with it). I see the faces that have seen things I could never imagine. I hear the lingua of a dozen places at a time just walking down my street. I smell the rich diversity of plants from other lands in a nearby park. I taste the teas, sweet desserts, holiday treats, and dishes from every continent.
And I cannot understand a people who fail to rejoice at the sheer amazingness of a vast and diverse world that contains the gifts of billions, in service to other billions, for the good of a planet we all must and will share.
There is a beautiful image from the Apocalypse of Jesus (better known as Revelation) in the Christian Bible. It is a throne room in which God sits, and the people of the world gather round. The observer, one John, describes his vision thus:
After this I looked, and behold, a great multitude that no one could number, from every nation, from all tribes and peoples and languages, standing before the throne and before the Lamb, clothed in white robes, with palm branches in their hands.
The word for “peoples” in the Greek is “ethnos.” A heavenly scene, made heavenly by the sheer diversity of what was there. A diverse multitude without number. For Christians, this is the future they, apparently, yearn for. And it is a beautiful image.
Gunny was afraid. I know that now. He was afraid of “the other.” He was afraid of the strangeness. He was afraid of what he did not know and could not readily understand. He needed a guide; someone who could help him see that the bodies and the colors and the strange food were all, in their way, beautiful. Not to be feared, but celebrated.
And because our work had thrust us, at times unwillingly, into that strangeness, we had not only come to see it, hear it, taste it, and smell it, but also to perceive it as the beautiful riot it was and is. I won’t say I ever really understood the full meaning of the diversity on display before me, but I came to value it for its sheer audacity.
(For Tim, Paul, and Jon–broussards with hearts)

